Previous editions

Edition 2009

Locandina 2009

The first edition, is like the first kiss you never forget it, a lot of fear and big enthusiasm.

The desire to realize something new and important for climbing in Sicily, but we never imagined what the festival would become in the later editions. A few sponsor and a lot of gadgets from companies from there to a few years would become our sponsor. With great surprise they arrived since the first edition the biggest names of national climbing, first of all Mauro Calibani which will be always there.

In this edition 150 participants will join the competition that once was called marathon and half marathon.

Thanks to climbers, Swiss, Austrian, German, English and Czechs the festival assumed since the first year the feature of international meeting, with the presence of the special guest Holeoek Marek, Czech Himalayan mountaineer that presented a film about his alpine adventures. A first experiment of film festival, in the following years become official holding an important space in the festival with the collaboration of Alan Formanek director of VIMFF. The presence and collaboration of Versante Sud and Up-Climbing since the first year had permit to compare directly with international world of climbing.

From the report of Up climbing 2009

Three days of festivity on rocks of Sicily

You can still smell the perfume of couscous fest in St Vito, international event, the SanVitoRockClimbingFestival.

For this first edition 42 participants to the marathon and 114 at the half; about 500 presents at the event, coming from half Europe. A lot of the popular International climbing: Mauro Calibani, Marzio Nardi, Alberto Gnerro, Alessandro Catalano, Adriano trombetta, Matteo Gambaro, Luca Giammarco, Angelika Rainer, Elena Chiappa, Anna Torretta and a lot more, climbing in the place which promises to become the most important in Europe.

Professionals Daniele Arena, Massimo Cappuccio and Peppe Gallo, last two sicilian climbers already authors in the first guide of climbing in the island, Di Roccia di Sole, published byVersante Sud in 3 languages, reached in a few years the second edition. All three founders of the association Rocks of Sicily, they never made the impression of being in year zero of the event.

Wonderful the scenery of the competition with a red rock beautifully crafted and a stunning view, warm and hospitable the atmosphere of St Vito centre, the heart of the show. Excellent composition with big stage, big screen, companies stands that supported the manifestation. At last the photos and videos assigned to real experts like Marco Spataro, Fabio Marino and the Risk4sport of Roberto and Luca Parisse.

The final victory, of what it has been until the end a perfect balance between game and competition, went to Marco Nescatelli and Matteo Gambaro: big effort from both that dedicated themselves in the study of the routes. The harder route, "Climbing Festival", in the next day went to the marathon of Mauro Calibani: an 8a+ full, even 8b. A festival where tastes perfumes and the atmosphere of the place accompanied the magic moment of climbing.

Edition 2010

Locandina 2010

The second edition is a real boom of people, San Vito Lo Capo is already the advertising climbing more dreamed in Italy and for the festival it’s the proper consideration.

Over 500 members from 11 different nationalities, all of them climb on San Vito’s rocks for the public its a unique entertainment. Followed with big interest the conference Alessanfro Jolly Lamberti on mental training. Between the guests, Alan Formanek director of Vancouver Film Festival and Alan Huges English producer of Stone Monkey.

Even the media and staff areas are sympathetically amazed from the explosion of St Vito event,

From the report of Up Climbing 2010

After shows, films,deep water, night climbing, the festival ends with two days of classic climbing:: l'open marathon Saturday with difficulties ,until 7a, and top marathon, judges for each style and difficulties from 7a upward. RIccardo Scarian and Mario Prinoth (also winner of total classification )win the top marathon, second Gabriele Moroni and Mauro Calibani  (the only one that asked for the hardest route, 8b+) third Masimo Da Pozzo and Ruggero Zardini. First Sicilian couple Mirto Monaco Tommaso Tamagnini.

Between the top climbers there are a lot of them that did the history of climbing on Italian crags: Christian Brenna, Severino Scassa, Marzio Nardi, Mauro Calibani, Stefano Alippi, Matteo Gambaro, Gabriele Moroni, Marco Ballerini, Riccardo Scarian, Donato Lella and others. It’s rare to see climbing in the same crag and in the same moment a lot of high level climbers, wiyh different style and methods of climbing.

Positive the balance for this edition 2010 that has seen in the street thousands of people between climbers and assistants, going to become one of the great meetings of Europe..The success starts from the second edition.

- hospitality from the hotels that gave a free accommodation for the participants.

- the availability from pubblic service that believed in this event from the beginning.;
- the availability and professionalism from the volunteers

- the beautiful scene of St vito between sea rocks and parts of lovely nature, makes us imagine nothing better than a meeting with success.

Edition 2011

locandina 2011 2

Edition 2011 follows the success of the year before, all the stranger climbers are the strength of this meeting. About four hundred enrolled between the two competitions , from this edition it will be called Top Marathon and Open Marathon. The DWS on the rocks of Cala Firriato is always a big success because for climbers it’s a double opportunity to climb and go for a ride on the boat. The specialguests make more special this event.

The conference hall is full, celebrating the 30th anniversary of the begging of climbing to St Vito lo Capo, with the opening of the first route on Pizzo Monaco. Special guest is Alessandro Gogna, a big of alpinism and one of the first in the 80s to discover the rocks in this angle of Sicily. Together with other past and present protagonists they start an interesting meeting/debate, with interesting photos of the past period and present, about the climbing evolution of this location. Followed by other two guests, climbers from Trentino, in love with our Sicilian rocks. So the evening ends with the pictures brought by Rolando Larcher and Luca Giupponi taken along Sicilian and trentine walls. Also interesting was the evening with polish meeting Eliza Kubarska and David Kaszlikowski showing the film “What Happened On Pam Island”.

Some of the most important companies are interested to the festival so proudly we see on racing fields the flags of Vibram, Scarpa, Petzl, Black Diamond, E9, Millet, and Camp. A great challenge for the organization to do the best and see climbers and sponsors wishing to return to St Vito Lo Capo.


Edition 2012

Locandina 2012

Year 2012 is the outdoor games year, new Format, big names and big numbers for this special edition. Competitions, rallies, conferences, film review, freestyle shows and concerts, these are the main contents of the Outdoor games.

To the traditional climbing events are added others dedicated to the Trial Running, the Mountain Bike and the kayak. In five days were held eight competitions, four rallies, , eight conferences/meetings with special guests, ten film from Film festival, two freestyle shows a day, concerts live music, sport activities with instructors.

More than eight hundred members in the various disciplines.

For climbing only were held four competitions plus a contest of DWS: The Baby Rock a show dedicated for the younger ones. The Rock Beginners for starters . The Open Marathon, the popular climbing marathon, at last the Top Marathon, where the top athletes compete on difficult routes.

For the Trail Running were performed two competitions. One time trial in night time, BLACK DIAMOND NIGHT TRAIL, and a test of EcoTrail on Riserva dello Zingaro trails..

For the Mountain Bike, was held an endurance competition on a ring shaped route, and a non-competitive rally in the Monte Cofano park, on two points, for experts and starters.

For the Kayak, was held a competition Ocean Racing, in open sea, three rallies long the Sanvitesi cost.

The competitions and rallies have been as well an occasion to live the sport near the champions or the big names of these. So names such as Adam Ondra and Steve Haston. Bikers cycled with the Austrian Thomas Ohler of Red Bull team, world Freestyle champion. The kayakers have been in the water with the English Justine Curvingen, known as a good filmmaker.

Even the conferences had an outstanding character, starting from tourism related to the climbing, with the participation of gotha characters of these locations:: Arco, Finale and la Val of Mello.


After this important conference, were held meetings with members of the outdoor activities: Maurizio Oviglia, Steve Haston with the Malta Climbing Club Group suppert and Visit Malta,; Guido Grugnola, that travelled in kayak the Italian cost, Saro Messina free rider etneo; Giacomo of Gatta kaykers, and Giovanni Spitale that will speak about the mission of ClimbforLife.

During the film review followed from Alan Formanek, the film makers Michele Radici and Alberto Sciamplicotti participated.

Freestyle performancewas enjoyable and exciting with GIBBON team to the slack line and Thomas Ohler with his bike in developments trial bike. Saturday night German group concert with Evelyn Kryger and Mimì Sterrantino and the parties at the camping El Bahira.


Edition 2013

locandina 2013 

2013 is a transition year. The idea to change season from autumn to spring takes us to achieve a different edition. The festival in the structure of meetings with competitions, rallies, conferences and shows, will go on in spring 2014, and in the mean time the place will be prepared better to receive climbers.

A new technical edition, dedicated to bolting and security on climbing. Will be held two conferences about elaborate topics that attracted the public attention.

The first conference “Sport and tourism in the safe area Trapanese Mountains” where local administrators, institutions, leaders of different associations met to discuss about how to manage the requests of new form of sport tourism, developing on this territory. Importanteconomicdevelopment in this territory.

The second “Bolting conference routes of sports climbing– Rules and problems ” with the participation of association leaders referring climbing on rock, CAI, Guide Alpine, Fasi and Uisp. Dealing with problems   about bolting with stainless steel material in a marine environment, and the principal criteria for a correct bolting routes of sports climbing on rock.

Mountain guides Massimo Faletti e Stefano Perrone, have taken a stage of two days on bolting techniques on a climbing sports territory, interesting topic that involved beginners and bolting starters . In these two days it has been equipped a small cliff with ten routes, small bolting school. the appointment is for 2014 with the Outdoor Games.

In all these years, the efforts done have been rewarded, as well as love from the many participants that returned to visit and the sponsors trusting us helped achieve the festival.

We have also become aware that we had contributed in a international knowledge of St Vito Lo Capo but also Sicily by many athletes. Giving a contribution to increase the number of presences, still not very used, most important from the point of economic development of our country.

The sports tourism in an atmosphere of festivity with climbing characters and outdoor sport beside simple fans that could compare and grow their knowledge. 

    Edition 2014 

locandina 2014 Z web

On Sunday the 18th of May , the awards ceremony closes the 2014 edition of SanVito Climbing festival.

Let’s cover this spring meeting from the very first day: already on Thursday morning, the team is busy at the YMCA Climbing House with registrations while school kids are welcome to experiment climbing the tower offered for the day by UISP; well the tower proved a success not only with kids but also with elder visitors. 

The opening party the same evening starts with a film by Alan Formanek: an adrenalin sequence of Reel Rock 8, the best cinematography a climber can watch. The moment of the event was welcoming a very special guest, an upcoming name in the world of top climbers: the 24 year old Silvio Reffo has been followed for his outstanding performance up to 9a+. The stage in San Vito’s main square offered the opportunity for Silvio Reffo to share his experience by presenting the video "La Sportiva Sardinia Bloc Scouting’. He also introduced another video actually showing the same 9a in San Vito he head earlier dealt with; the video is  by Climb for Life that we wish to compliment on their mission to sponsor bone marrow donation.

A shiver run down the spine of climbers and locals early morning: ominous thunderclouds gathered covering the sky above San Vito. In a matter of minutes a heavy shower with hailstorm flooded everything, and here we feared the worst.
Yet the sun came, and the day turned perfect. At noon the walls were already dry, and hundreds of climbers started going up and down the crags. The only event affected was the DWS at Cala Firriato, which has been postponed to Sunday. Rendez-vous at 9 am at the port.

Getting back to climbing: Silvio Reffo enjoyed climbing at Cala Mancina - yesterday he was pondering a rest, being affected by a sty, but seeing the wonderful sky towering above San Vito you'll forget any ailment and hurry to the crags.

Daila Ojeda and Barbara Raudner got some rest, aiming at competing in the Top Climbing contest which will take place on Sunday at Cala Mancina - yet, they might climb with the many people attending the Open Marathon Climbing at the Bunker.

In the evening, Daniel Jung Black Diamond’s testimonial and Neil Gresham gathered the other bigs and their many fans at YMCA Climbing House in San Vito for sign posters and pint of beer and some chit-chat.

A crisp night welcomed the guests of the evening programme in Piazza Santuario, San Vito. The first one has been Neil Gresham, the excellent Brit climber who, starting from Hard Grit, where he's mastering the E10 grade, specialized in Deep Water Soloing.

He's visiting Sicily for the third time, and he's always astonished by its excellent rock and the wonderful landscapes: in fact, after San Vito, Neil will cross the island to reach Syracuse, where he'll be shooting a DWS clip.

It's time to move to perfect slabs, such as the ones whose tales have been written - and related - by Maurizio "Manolo" Zanolla, presenting his "Verticalmente Demodè" movie - co-authored by Davide Carrari - which presents the story of Eternit, Manolo's hardest route, an incredible line graded 9a, which have been tried a couple of times, with no success, by Adam Ondra - during our interview in December Adam himself confirmed that it was an incredibly hard and beautiful line. Manolo, aka "il Mago", recounted his story from its very beginning. His tale wound in many directions, ranging from his first free climbing experiences on the great walls of the Dolomites, to the crags on Lake Garda and to the (in)famous withdrawal rappelling on a cliff during an attempt on the route Pesce in Marmolada. During last years he devoted himself to high difficulty, and managed to pass again into the annals of free climbing with Eternit, an incredibly technical slab sealing a career far from the trends, the fads and any dictate, an extremely precarious yet independent climbing - "fiddly", as dubbed by Manolo himself.

The last feat of the grand soiree have been the "women" of the festival: Daila Ojeda from Spain and Barbara Raudner, from Austria, who presented "Pura Vida", a movie about their tour of Spanish crags. Daila and Barbara are amongst the strongest female climbers in the world, having sent in the recent past some of the hardest routes, and they're also brilliant speakers, who have entertained the audience also before and after their speech.

Warm day at San Vito - after the "hot" night with such an excellent series of guests who entertained the audience. Today has been held the Climbing Marathon, the very core of the event. Every participant has visited the crags testing any kind of routes. The Marathon rules are well tested: each couple of climbers shall climb the same route; if both climb it leading and rotpunkt they achieve the maximum score, otherwise the points earned are diminished by a series of penalties (e.g., climbing top rope, falling while leading…). All of this for a maximum of thirty minutes on each route.

The turnout has been high, especially in the Bunker sector. Many top climbers have joined the Marathon, as hors concours. We have seen Daila Ojeda and Barbara Raudner mingling with the climbers, providing advice and support, while Silvio Reffo, presiding the La Sportiva booth, has decided to rest. Daila and Barbara had a nice chance to relax and warm up for the Top Contest, tomorrow. Barbara, and later Daniel Jung Black Diamond’s testimonial, have also tried a project recently equipped - but the conditions were not the best. Too hot for what it seems to be 8b/8b+: it might be done in a cooler time of the year.

While the climbers were enjoying the crags of San Vito, the MTB All Mountain meeting has taken place, featuring a circuit of 18 km around Monte Cofano. An excellent chance to enjoy the wonderful landscapes - while who had chosen to relax under the sun at the beach have been entertained by the Team Gibbon, starring a whole bunch of top athletes engaged in all the tricks in the book...

In the evening there was the Black Diamond Night Trail, trail running, the Outdoor Games . The route started from the town's main square and along the first few miles along Via Savoia , to take in the dark, lit only by the BD headlights (Black Daimond has offered the headlamps for all the runners), 5km along the path that leads to the top of Mount Monaco . The last steep climb before the cross gave the cue for the final sprint to those who wanted to win the special prize of the halfway point. Then off , steep descent back to the village, along a path that is sometimes disconnected , to reconnect to the track uphill and soon find street lights Savoie for a triumphal entry into the stage, after a total of 10km of racing .

The path told by Massimo Faletti , one of the participants : " challenging! Great climb without pause , with sections on steps that break the legs" and the downhill? "long and even at times steep and rough for a globally challenging path.

After the race, Daniel Jung Black Diamond’s testimonial entertained the audience with his exciting slide show, a mix of spectacular films and photographs evocative. The Black Diamond athlete as well as being a great climber was good on stage in contact with the public.

A not sunny day in San Vito is the welcome for tha last day of the event but rain will arrive only at 5pm so in the morning and the first part of the afternoon, is possible to climb at Parco Cerriolo and above all Grotta Cerriolo, infact this is the location of Climb for Life and is not a fluke.

Fans wait the second ascent of Adam Ondra's route but there is too umidity and is better do other, like for example Stefano Ghisolfi that infact climbs the line just left to Climb, a never climbed before route, FA on sight for Stefano that gives it the name Cuccia Svasa and the grade 8a+.

A lot of people wait also Daila Ojeda and when she comes all want a photo or a autograph, like Daniel Jung Black Diamond’s testimonial and above all by youngers. All are amazed by the rock, for its quality and colors, for the forms of the holds but this is San Vito where all this is normal.

After four days of rock and sud, the San Vito Climbing Festival is ended. On stage for the awards, all the champions that onored this great editions and the winners of different competitions. After, all to Climbing House for the party whit music, beer and photos.

A great edition we report thanks more or less 500 membres and 1000 climbers around the different climbing areas. A lot of big climbers and guests whit a wonderful stage, great event worthy, that onored the beautiful Piazza Santuario in the center of San Vito.

Not exploit like last year this time cause the weather, perfect to climb plaisir and not on too hard route. Only Reffo and Ghisolfi tried to realize the second ascent of Climb for Life whit great courage. Daila Ojeda, Barbara Raudner and Daniel Jung tried also the new routes, bolted fot this edition of Festival, but whit no surprise. Next time!

In general is possible to note an addition both the number and the quality of the route thanks the constant job of Daniele and Ivan of Climbing House. Today, this important structure is the reference for San Vito climbing for every activity and all climbers of Europe can find here all information they want.

We'll see in October again for the Outdoor Trails.

Special Thanks all our supporter

Patrocinio del Comune di San Vito Lo Capo -  Assessorato al Turismo della Regione Siciliana - UISP  Lega Montagna  

    Edition 2015  

Locandina 2015 last

Sunday, 1 November ended the seventh edition of the San Vito Climbing Festival 2015, surely the most "wet" in recent years. Yes, because the weather was just engaged in putting a strain on the organizational skills of the staff and the patience of many climbers, guides, business representatives and stand joints for the occasion in San Vito Lo Capo. However despite the rain showers and some postponed appointment, the budget of the event can be considered more than satisfactory. After hearing the first impressions of the public and sponsors, the new format is liked and will be definitely revived. As scheduled the inscriptions were opened Thursday morning at Climbing house, neuralgic point of reference for the organization and the participants. In the afternoon, climbers have got to try the ways of the new sector, fervor and excitement among the route setters who had equipped the streets of the Big Eye, especially given the caliber of the climbers who came specially to try the streets. Opened the evening the first of our guests, the German Felix Berg, eclectic character which presented photos of his expeditions. Following the films of the Vancouver Film Festival presented as has become tradition by Alan Formanek. The activities in the square, boulder race, speed race for children and freestyle shows, scheduled for Friday and Saturday, there were fortunately with a great and sunny weather, great success for the public who appreciated the succession of activities for whole days. Real novelty of this edition was the boulder contest, which was held in the square shrine, where a beautiful wall mounted on the stage was realized. Scenic and effect, it has attracted the attention of the public and climbers. The blocks were masterfully plotted by French team directed by Richard Cigna, thanks to new volumes and took made available by Giuseppe Macaluso of Scalart. On the climbing tower made available Uisp, in collaboration with Cristina Cascone and Paul Bernardini, there were the children's speed races, and a couple races parents and children. Races that collect a lot of success among boys and San Vito and families of the many casual tourists, the always excellent timing service offered by Kronos Trapani. Saturday, after the morning brief time, the couple entered in Open Marathon battled in PINEWOOD sector. Sector, we want to remember, as always has been thoroughly checked and verified a few days earlier from the festival staff (Disgaggi and strengthening of dropped points). Saturday afternoon, a wild Thomas Oheler charmed the audience with his show, jumps, pirouettes and developments worthy of a world champion. Spectacular her long jumps passing up to eight people lying on the ground, between two long wings of the crowd. In the evening there were the end of the boulder contest, exciting and engaging with the audience who cheered the climbers on the most difficult blocks. Followed with a quick change of scenery, the stage after the race has turned to accommodate guests who presented their films. Silvio Reffo, elegant on stage as on the rock, presented an interesting gallery of photos and movies on her career. It ends just in time, due to a strong storm, which forced everyone to repair the Climbing House. Here in a more intimate and engaging atmosphere Federica Mingolla and Nina Caprez, they presented their films and talked about their way of living climbing. The evening went on until the night with music and good beer. The Sunday, an incessant rain has blown the much awaited Top marathon, and the gathering of mountain biking. Fortunately in previous days, but also from Monday onwards for those who remained, the very strong climbers have got to try the spectacular way, with long shots over forty meters, and some streets still to be paid. It gave satisfaction for the organizers and the route setters, receiving compliments and favorable opinions by the climber Silvio Reffo caliber, Rolando Larcher, Bernardo Rivadossi only by the young Federica Mingolla and Nina Caprez. Sunday afternoon, all together municipal classroom for the thanks and the awards ceremony and a see you next year. In conclusion a festival as always cheerful, joyful and interesting, not just the "Sicilian" face time that surprised a bit 'all. See you next year, for which it has already put to work the organizing team for once again giving an exciting festivals and renewed.

 Edition 2016




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