Very scenic and interesting crag, featuring mostly vertical slabs. Due to the height of the crag, some routes are quite long, requiring endurance and stamina. The exposure is good: sunlight reaches the walls in the morning, and the crag is in the shade during the afternoon - an ideal situation for any season.
Its enchanting silhouette has attracted many climbers, who equipped routes for any difficulty and style, varying from the trad routes in the Eighties - counting some rare repetiion - to exceptionale lines bolted choosing a modern approach.
With high humidity this crag isn't an ideal spot, since the rock gets smeared with a thick coat of salty deposit, coming from the sea. Despite this problem, it's a very interesting area, counting several different routes for any taste, plus a couple of interesting multi-pitches.
Impressive rampart, up to 300 mt high. The sector counting the highest number of routes feature a reddish rock, carved by huge dihedrals, deep chimneys and protruding roofs. The first ascent, by local climbers, dates back to 1994, on a route graded VI. Large sectors offer the potential for a lot more routes.
Pizzo Monaco is an interesting and evident needle close to Monte Monaco north face. Several routes are scattered on the peak, varying from trad (dating back to the Eighties, and rarely repeated), to modern routes. The easy access and the relatively modest lenght account for pleasant multi-pitches.
The easy access of Calamancina - quite an exception, for this trait of coast-line - allowed an interesting development of this area, counting 5 different sectors with any kind of climbing style and any difficulty grade. The Grotto of Calamancina is perhaps the most interesting one, featuring both overhangs and very steep vertical slabs; some routes have not been sent yet.
This sector is quite secluded and remote; the access is long and complicated, the difficulties are high - not so many climbers reach this area presenting overhanging and wearing routes; the sector has anyway the potential for some development.
Of extremely easy access, very close to the Camping El Bahira - just a few minutes stroll. Very wide selection of routes, satisfying the tastes of any climber. Some routes - as happens all along the cliff - could be definitely traumatic for the fingers, the rock being extremely sharp.
This sector has only a few routes, yet it deserves a visit due to the magnificent scenery and location. The routes inside the cave require a good strenght and endurance, while the outside walls are more often technical and precarious holds. The first six routes are located on an obvious white spur, 100 mt left of the cave.
The sector is named after a very wide cave, strongly overhanging and presenting a blaze of stalactites and geological formations. The view on the valley below is breath-taking. It counts only ten routes, and very difficult, yet the overall number will increase for sure in a short time.
This sector has been recently enlarged. It features especially steep overhangs and vertical, carved slabs. Under the tower there is a wide cave presenting interesting routes; at the far-right end there are other interesting slabs which can be reached after two short sections of easy climbing.
Interesting and very scenic crag, featuring overhanging walls, carved and rich of holds. The routes require strenght and endurance; although the exposure is south, the sunlight reaches directly the walls only at mid-day. Yet, it's better to avoid climbing in the warmest afternoons...
It's an obvious and characteristic stem, easily recognizable from the road, located a few hundred metres away. The exposure is south and west, thus allowing to climb in different times of the day also in the hottest season. The south face features mostly vertical slabs, while the west side presents very steep overhangs.
Wonderful wall, slighlty overhanging and smeared with long stripes and concretion giving the overall feeling of a zebra-striped texture. The first routes were set bottom-up, while the latter has been equipped rap-bolting, as for any other sport climbing sector. The maximum height of the wall is 80 mt, and there's still a wide potential for new routes.